Martyn

Thanks for the replies guys, I think Fuzzy's reply nailed it with the comment, "effective focal length". Many of the pictures I've taken lately have been right on the edge of what me and the camera are capable of. I've taken risks with shutter speeds, iso and processing in order to try and make a shot work. What I'm trying to do is get a clear understanding of how each element of taking a photo works, so that I can make better decisions on how to shoot. If I know how slow I can go with the shutter speed at a certain focal length I have a starting point. Next in the equation comes subject movement; a shutter speed that leaves a guitarists or fiddlers right hand blurry is ok, but blurry eyes are not ok. At the root of these questions is my experience at the Old Time Music Festival I attended a few weeks ago. I had free access to all areas, but only one chance to capture the moment. I'm gutted that some of the shots that would have made brilliant pictures are out of focus, blurred or far too dark. I've been into photography nearly two years now and have had a great deal of beginners luck, but if I want to continue to develop my skills and work on my style I need to have a clear understanding of how my camera works and how to get the best out of it.

I've often heard the advice that the minimum shutter speed for hand held shooting should be equal to or greater than the focal length of the lens, ie for a 50mm lens the shutter speed should be at least 1/50th sec, and for 200mm at least 1/200th sec. How does this advice stand with the use of cropped sensors? I use a Nikon D5100, do I multiply the focal length of the lens by 1.5 to get a recommended minimum shutter speed, ie 50mm x 1.5 = 1/75th sec and 200mm x 1.5 = 1/300 sec.

If you're editing a raw file, the original remains as it is except it has a small invisible sidecar file attached which contains the edits you have applied.

Hi Derek, welcome aboard!

I must say that auto focus is a waste of in my opinion for macro, the depth of field and focus points are so small that the camera will be constantly hunting for the sweet spot. What the connected tubes do well is only stop the aperture down when you shoot. Focus for macro is better achieved in manual mode and slowly moving the camera until you find the focus point.

I found my extension tubes great value for money, I got a used set off Ebay. I got a Kenco set with electrical contacts but you can go cheaper and just get plain tubes. I also got a reverse lens adaper for a couple of quid that offers good results too. Nothing comes easy with macro, it's all trial and error and find out what works for you. Have a look in my Blog posts where you can see my gear.

Congratulations Paul, great picture!

Hi Clicker, welcome to the madhouse. I may just take you up on the coffee and sticky bun! ?

Hi Paul, welcome aboard!

Hello Jeff, welcome from sunny Morecambe!

Hi Martin, welcome to the forum from Lancashire. I'll be in Lincolnshire this weekend for the American Old Time Music Festival in Gainsborough!

I never said a word!

Congratulations Cathy, you're doing some really good work lately!

Well if it's good enough for Thomas Shahan...... Congratulations Paul, your macro work is already awesome, I'm expecting something extra special from you now. No pressure!

Great choice BP! Congratulation Kev, a great shot with an unusual twist!

I follow these too! I was amazed at how much the mirror bounces and vibrates when it flips up and down, no wonder higher end cameras have a mirror lock up mode.

Hi Rick, welcome from over the border in Lancashire!

I've seen lots of laws and by-laws concerning cemeteries, but "no photography" has never been one of them. Provided you are mindful other visitors and respect their privacy there shouldn't be a problem. Just remember that graveyards can be hazardous places; the ground is prone to subsidence due to coffins decomposing and collapsing and gravestones and masonry often topple over.

Cheers Paul! I realise it's not a real issue as I know I can shoot at a lower shutter speed as you say. It's just a matter of remembering to do it. I also have another problem; the sun was setting and the curtains were closed for the evening, my youngest daughter is still in her pyjamas. She's just got dressed and gone out but I will probably meet her tomorrow as she comes in and I go out. The real problem is, why can't I do that any more?

I've been having a bit of a play with the new wireless flash triggers and have found a small issue. I wonder if anyone else has had this experience. The max shutter/ flash sync speed on my Nikon D5100 is 1/200 sec. But with the wireless system in use there must be a small delay which reduces the sync speed because it appears that the shutter is already beginning to close. (I think the shutter mechanism travels from the top down, the lens reverses the image so the shutter appears to travel from the bottom up) 1/200 sec f8 1/160 sec f8 For these shots the flash was about 12 ft away to my right and bounced off the ceiling.

Hello Colin, welcome to the forum!

A pair of Yongnuo RF-603N wireless flash triggers had arrived in the post when I got in from work today. I'm looking forward to trying them out, especially since the box says, "Unlimited Wonderful" and "Easy Grasp". Now then, where did I put those batteries I got yesterday?

Hi Beth, welcome to the madhouse!

Welcome to the forum from the only sane member; my name is Martyn and I'm a helecopter! :-P

Cheers Paul, I've just done a Buy Now on Ebay for a pair of the same. Yongnuo get some good reviews on Youtube and at least it's a name I recognise.