Edinburgh in Mono

[Martyn]

These are the best mono images from my recent trip to Edinburgh. Please feel free to comment, particularly on the conversion and processing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Korky]

Number 2 for me - the path is perfectly placed in the frame and does a super job of leading the eye to the building.

 

Number 3 isn't bad either!

 

Korky

[bugmeister]

All good conversions for the subjects to give them a certain hard-edged feel.  Not too keen on what looks like vignetting on the first one, but that is a minor niggle.

[David]

I disagree Bugmeister (or can I call you bugs or bugsy?), I think the vignetting adds to what is a truly majestic image, and frames the Castle well - the 1st one is my favourite.

 

I think they each have their own appeal. The monument looks great against that fabulous monochrome sky in the 3rd one. The only minor criticism, from me would be the vignetting in the 2nd image, I think it would benefit from brighter corners.

 

Well done on the conversions Martyn, they're the kind of conversions I am trying to achieve in my mono's

[NannyFerret]

I like the Holgarish effect in no 1 but all very good shots, Martyn.

[FUJI]

I live all three of these, well done Martyn, you are certainly getting there as a good all rounder, when I thought, it was going to be all banjo's and Folk Singers;-)

Can, I suggest that all of your mono ( and colour) work could be much enhanced by learning the basics of ....Contrast Grading......especially if you are shooting in RAW.........I have a tutorial in the Learning Section of TIPF.

Contrast Grading is a very simple method of teasing out all the tones in a photograph, the targeting of chosen areas to lighten or darken by degrees can really lift a good shot. The same layering and soft brushing can be used to enhance areas by increasing or decreasing , saturation, levels or sharpening.

I am sure that it can be done in any photo software that uses layers and brushes?

FUJI

[colinb]

3 very good conversions and whilst no.2 is my favorite I would like to say well done Martyn with the exposure on the sky with no.3 - too easy to loose detail in the clouds on scenes like this.

[Martyn]

Thank you all for the comments, much appreciated!

 

 

3 very good conversions and whilst no.2 is my favorite I would like to say well done Martyn with the exposure on the sky with no.3 - too easy to loose detail in the clouds on scenes like this.

 

Cheers Colin, all these images were given a workover in Lightroom 5.2. The skies were "painted" over with an adjustment brush to bring down the exposure to regain cloud detail. Still very much learning how to get the best out of an image, hence the request for comments on the processing.

[Martyn]

Fuji, thank you for your input too. I've been reading your tutorial and trying to understand how this works. If I've understood correctly, you have the base image which remains untouched. On top of this you have created several layers of the same image, each layer having it's own layer mask. Each layer mask is used for one type of adjustment only so that you have total and easy control over each adjustment.

 

ie Base layer = original picture

Layer 1 = curve adjustment

Layer 2 = local adjustment of contrast with brush

Layer 3 = Sharpening of selected objects with brush

Layer 4 = graduated layer to bring down exposure of sky

 

Continue with layers until all adjustments look ok then flatten the image and save as jpg for posting.

 

 

 

[FUJI]

Hi, again Martyn,

You have the gist of what I do.....but I don't do exactly the same to every photograph...

I begin by making a copy layer......the clicking in CURVES, which bring up the Curves diagonal, click in the pic anywhere and you will see an ...,Eye Dropper...symbol.....use this to chose the area you wish to adjust....then bend the curves diagonal until you have the right adjustment....click... OK.

Then after, adjusting the layers as shown, use a soft airbrush after choosing the hardness, size and opacity via the sliders......use the brush to alter the tones as and where required......Flatten the layer when happy.....REPEAT THIS.....layer by layer, until you have all the tones adjusted to suit......FLATTEN every time, to save disk space.

Only towards the end do I alter any saturation levels ( colour pics) using the same brushes, layers method....likewise for targeted sharpening which is my final act.

When starting on Contrast grading for the first time, don't be too heavy handed, use low numbers. For opacity and hardness, that way you will avoid halo's and harsh transitions.

Please PM me should you need further advice.

FUJI