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Hi to all our members ... We  would just like to draw your attention to the latest post on the following link... Thank you for your attention .If you have already responded to my note  on Chatbox  about this please ignore this sticky note ... Thanks  folks ....

http://www.tipf.co.uk/forums/topic/46369-important~-the-forum-its-future-and-finances/

Clicker and Ryewolf   ADMIN TEAM 

Regretfully we have to once again ask members for  some financial support in order to  keep TIPF  running till December 2023. The more pledges we have to become  FRIEND OF THE FORUM  the less the individual cost will be so  if you want this Forum to continue  please follow the link below  and decide  if you are able to  support us . Thank you all for your support in the past ... it has been appreciated  a great deal ...

https://www.tipf.co.uk/forums/topic/57184-202223-forum-finances-update-important-notice/

 Clicker and Ryewolf  ...  Admin Team 

Hi TIPFers 

I AM HERE AGAIN WITH THE  BEGGING BOWL TO ENSURE THE FORUM CAN KEEP GOING ... Please follow  below if you want to  support the continuation  of this Forum and  this  small but friendly community. 

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 Clicker and Ryewolf ...

https://www.tipf.co.uk/forums/topic/57184-202223-forum-finances-update-4th-july-2023/

 

Exposing for high contrast subjects?


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Just wondering how you go about exposing for high contrast birds that are black/white?

I always have trouble with them, black-headed gulls, Shellducks, Avocets etc etc Either the darks are too dark or the whites blown. I know it's easier to recover details from dark areas more than whites in PP, but what about catching it in camera?

Sorry if it's been asked before, for landscapes I'd think of bracketed shots and a HDR merge, but that's not going to work with birds/sunjects that are moving about - or would it???

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Yes, you could try HDR or Intelligent Dynamic to get the maximum  detail in blacks and white, but even so, getting the right balance "in camera" could still be tricky. I would bite the bullet and accept you need PP - which means either shooting RAW, or underexpose using a low ISO, then push the shadows afterwards.

It really comes down to how much dynamic range your camera has.

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When I shoot birds I tend to do so in Manual mode, I meter off something relatively that the same light is falling on (grass seems to work reasonably well) and then make slight adjustments over or under depending on the bird. Just remember to re-meter reasonably often. 

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Shooting in raw is always advised in these situations, enabling you to pull back detail in the whites and lift the shadows. You could also copy/duplicate the raw file then as Chris suggests convert to HDR. 

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