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Hi to all our members ... We  would just like to draw your attention to the latest post on the following link... Thank you for your attention .If you have already responded to my note  on Chatbox  about this please ignore this sticky note ... Thanks  folks ....

http://www.tipf.co.uk/forums/topic/46369-important~-the-forum-its-future-and-finances/

Clicker and Ryewolf   ADMIN TEAM 

Regretfully we have to once again ask members for  some financial support in order to  keep TIPF  running till December 2023. The more pledges we have to become  FRIEND OF THE FORUM  the less the individual cost will be so  if you want this Forum to continue  please follow the link below  and decide  if you are able to  support us . Thank you all for your support in the past ... it has been appreciated  a great deal ...

https://www.tipf.co.uk/forums/topic/57184-202223-forum-finances-update-important-notice/

 Clicker and Ryewolf  ...  Admin Team 

Hi TIPFers 

I AM HERE AGAIN WITH THE  BEGGING BOWL TO ENSURE THE FORUM CAN KEEP GOING ... Please follow  below if you want to  support the continuation  of this Forum and  this  small but friendly community. 

As always your support is  both vital and appreciated ...

 Clicker and Ryewolf ...

https://www.tipf.co.uk/forums/topic/57184-202223-forum-finances-update-4th-july-2023/

 

Scanning


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I am trying to squeeze out the best possible quality from some 35mm monochrome negatives with an old Epson 4180 flatbed scanner using the supplied negative holder and software. Lack of good Dmax seems the major problem so I have tried a sort of hdr technique using levels to get the different exposures then merging in PSE photo merge. Question is does anyone have experience of doing this or similar and have any suggestions to make the idea work eg use curves or brightness settings and how many exposures to make? I have tried using HDR merge in CS5 but can't work out how many times over and under the standard exposure is used.

Any advice gratefully received - but please no suggestions about spending money on a different scanner or on expensive professional services.

Jeff

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I know both Fuji and I do restoration work but I bet neither of us do everything the same way, it all often depends of what you have to start with - can you link us to a good sized file?

Three files but each is way to big to load here, and to make them small I will need to adjust them on my PC then use ITunes to get them on my IPad then somehow adjust the size to make them fit here. - a task that was beyond me last week.

But given there is no standard way to do the job a one off solution would not be what I need so I'll not pursue the offer. Thanks for the offer which is appreciated.

Jeff

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Hi, mine were Edwardian half plate glass negatives, I had no joy with a scanner, so chose to use a DIY ground glass ( acrylic) screen, light box on which photographed each negative glass plate using a 50mm lens......I converted them to positives in Photoshop CS6.

Here is one if the results......a very seasonable one.

I processed over 200 in all, they ere wonderful.

FUJI

post-4-0-23979000-1417802145.jpg

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Hi, mine were Edwardian half plate glass negatives, I had no joy with a scanner, so chose to use a DIY ground glass ( acrylic) screen, light box on which photographed each negative glass plate using a 50mm lens......I converted them to positives in Photoshop CS6.

Here is one if the results......a very seasonable one.

I processed over 200 in all, they ere wonderful.

FUJI

I have done that with 35mm colour slides using a Sigma 105mm macro lens on Sony DSLR. I used a small slide viewer light-box but the Iluminations was uneven. Howeve I have some of the plastic sheet used to make illuminated advertising signs which I guess is quite neutral and should work OK for even lighting if placed a few inches above the slide viewer. I have a copier stand ( adapted from an enlarger ) and digital files processed in LR could well Print OK.

Thanks for the suggestion/reminder.

Jeff

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