Mono Conversions - Trying for More Depth

[David]

I often end up with mono conversions flattening out images, so I have been processing some images pre mono and post mono conversion, trying to create more depth in the images.

 

I have increased the saturation, vibrance, contrast and clarity in the Raw files before taking into elements and converting to mono

 

Although I think I have succeeded, I wondered if you think the images have depth to them:

 

 

 

This one has also had 5% colour replaced:

[colinb]

David I'm not really sure these are good examples of a mono, the lack of colour tones means they have blended into a bit of a mush which is not helping the content ??

[GrahamNfk]

Foliage is always difficult in mono conversion. Have you tried the 'colour filters' mono conversions to mimic what we did in the old days, ie slap a coloured filter on the camera? Green filter for foliage, if memory serves.

[David]

I deliberately chose to try these because they didn't have a lot of depth to the colour versions and thought mono might have improved them. The 'mush' look was evident in colour too.

 

It is an area I want to improve on. I will try some filters Graham, although they are autumn scenes so not all the tree leaves are green

[GrahamNfk]

I deliberately chose to try these because they didn't have a lot of depth to the colour versions and thought mono might have improved them. The 'mush' look was evident in colour too.

 

It is an area I want to improve on. I will try some filters Graham, although they are autumn scenes so not all the tree leaves are green

Even better in Autumn, the golds and brown respond well to yellow and orange filters

[David]

I just thought on...the birch tree in #1 was the focus so the BG is a little blurred. Maybe a bad example to try lol here is #2 with the green filter added before conversion, I cant see much difference if any though:

 

[GrahamNfk]

It's difficult, in't it? So much relies on the colour of the light on the day. Some pics with trees just pop to life with a bit of filtration, others just steadfastly refuse to budge. Some ya win...

[David]

And here it is with yellow and orange filters respectively:

 

 

 

I guess you are right Graham. At least they are better than a straight mono conversion lol see next post by me...

 

I don't know where this image came from or how to edit it out lol:

[David]

Here are the original mono conversions:

 

 

[ChrisLumix]

I agree with what's been said - it would be good to see your conversions on a different subject as those aren't really the best for mono?

[FUJI]

Hi, David,

I struggled with exactly the same problems when I began to shoot on mono......until I discovered .....Contrast a Grading .....and......Selective a Sharpening.......please look at my tutorial in the appropriate section of TIPF......it gives you the basics.

FUJI

[Black Pearl]

Mono works when the shot gains something from being mono - this usually means you have to shoot with mono in mind as very few shots taken then processed as an afterthought really work. 

[David]

Thanks for the comments guys

 

Chris I agree and BP I have heard that said from pro mono shooters too.

 

The point to this was to use some hard to convert shots to see if depth could be gained because a lot of my conversions (although getting better) still end up being flattened by the mono conversion. I think #2 in the 1st set has worked to an extent and maybe something like silver fx pro might help to convert better than elements.

 

Fuji, thanks I will have a gander

[JMRead]

Hello David,

 

I thought I would tackle the depth using the light to dark method by increasing the brightness of some areas and decreasing it in others. Then using the contrast tool on a couple of selected areas at the front.

 

Not sure that it works that well though

 

Jim

 

 

[fuzzyedges]

I think getting depth in this image would be quite hard as its all of one contrast

Jim I hate to point this out but david has a NO against his image being altered I am sure you missed that it is easy to miss especally if you can see a way to help

[Black Pearl]

Sorry that looks worse on my screen.

It is the sort of shot that unless you have the original RAW file you're never going to get a decent result - even then I honestly don't think it will ever make a good monochrome.

[JMRead]

OMG I'm so sorry I'll delete the post if I can

 

Jem

[FUJI]

I love this thread because it shows TIPF. At it's very best with almost everyone chipping in to help and advise.

Being very honest, I don't think these foliage photographs make good subjects for initiating good mono conversion and processing.

Jem is on the right track by suggesting the lightening and darkening of selected areas, but this needs to be done on separate layers in Photoshop or other editing software.

My basic tutorial, should help to get anyone started on what can be a very daunting task, but, just like learning to drive; after a time, many of the steps become internalized and you carry them out automatically via a combination of hand/eye coordination, plus a little artistic flair.

Using layers, soft brushes, curves or levels any area of a photograph can be lightened or darkened in graduated steps until the desired result is reached.......the secret is, not to make light or dark areas that obviously shouldn't be ...........or vice versa.

When carrying out this kind of processing, use only moderate adjustments with any sliders at or below the half way mark .....that way you build the contrasting areas gradually and naturally.

Once you have the working on layers with soft brushes under your belt, the physical process becomes relatively easy..........what can be more difficult is the amount and placing of the adjusted areas to make your image POP!

The more you prractice, the better you will become......just do it.......don't be put off by occasional faliures ( I get plenty of stick on here if I get it wrong ......but carry on regardless ;-)

FUJI

[fuzzyedges]

OMG I'm so sorry I'll delete the post if I can

 

Jem

Dont beat yourself up about it Jim its an easy mistake

most dont mind some do its not the end of the world

We are very easy going on here if not a little wacky

[NannyFerret]

 

We are very easy going on here if not a little wacky

 

What do you mean, Fuzzy "a little" ?

[ChrisLumix]

I love this thread because it shows TIPF. At it's very best with almost everyone chipping in to help and advise.

Being very honest, I don't think these foliage photographs make good subjects for initiating good mono conversion and processing.

Jem is on the right track by suggesting the lightening and darkening of selected areas, but this needs to be done on separate layers in Photoshop or other editing software.

My basic tutorial, should help to get anyone started on what can be a very daunting task, but, just like learning to drive; after a time, many of the steps become internalized and you carry them out automatically via a combination of hand/eye coordination, plus a little artistic flair.

Using layers, soft brushes, curves or levels any area of a photograph can be lightened or darkened in graduated steps until the desired result is reached.......the secret is, not to make light or dark areas that obviously shouldn't be ...........or vice versa.

When carrying out this kind of processing, use only moderate adjustments with any sliders at or below the half way mark .....that way you build the contrasting areas gradually and naturally.

Once you have the working on layers with soft brushes under your belt, the physical process becomes relatively easy..........what can be more difficult is the amount and placing of the adjusted areas to make your image POP!

The more you prractice, the better you will become......just do it.......don't be put off by occasional faliures ( I get plenty of stick on here if I get it wrong ......but carry on regardless ;-)

FUJI

 

Using Blending Modes (specifically, Lighten and Darken), take a lot of the work and effort out of it.

[JMRead]

Thanks for being so nice guys I do appreciate it :-)

 

What I would do with this image is to make a copy layer (CTRL+J) of it and lighten the whole of that then use a mask and the Brush tool to combine the two. Doing it this way may take longer but it can be done knowing that everything can be reversed as you proceed.

 

Cheers - Jem

[David]

Thanks for all the comments guys, sorry I have been away for a while. I don't mind anyone editing my photos as long as they ask first - the reason I have put no to this is for copyright purposes - 99% of the time I will allow it as long as I am asked first. I don't like using to much PP to get results I am looking for, I would much rather shoot again and again until I improve. One of the best formulas I have found for conversions is to get depth to the original shot, say something in the foreground or a more shallow DOF.