cropper

[Leon]

I'm finding using the cannon a little more difficult but thats to be expected, but having little Zoom I;m finding my way of capturing images more difficult, I know about law of thirds but when trying to capture moving objects I tend to frame them in the middle so they are in focus, with my old 600mm (equivalent) it was easy zoom right in then you have a good image, so please tell me how to crop images correctly, below is a simple Swan which had just dunked it's head in the water.

 

How would you crop this?

 

[Leon]

the PB has compressed it too much, original is her:  http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/accord61/media/IMG_0062.jpg.html

[Phil]

I understand the frustrations of having a limited zoom and cropping can often be the only solution, it is entirely dependant on what your original intentions for the image were.

 

Here's a couple of examples. I've also straightened the horizon and removed the buoy that was grabbing the eye.

 

 

[Guest]

if the objects is moving like the swan always leave space for it too move into, it allows the viewer to imagine the swan moving across the frame

[fuzzyedges]

A half press on your shutter release locks focus so you can then move the swans into the thirds position when you take them

This is okay as long as you arnt using a shallow dof where it may go out of focus when you move position

[colinb]

I'm finding using the cannon a little more difficult but thats to be expected, but having little Zoom I;m finding my way of capturing images more difficult, I know about law of thirds but when trying to capture moving objects I tend to frame them in the middle so they are in focus, 

 

Mrwall -  your canon has a 7 point focus system and I think in reality this post is not about cropping it is about how to focus correctly.

 

if you are going to centre everything then you will be doing a lot of cropping so lets talk about how to adjust those 7 focus spots to enable you to get the swans head placed off centre but using one of those 7 spots to focus. I would encourage you to read the manual, if you don't have one try looking for an on-line version.

 

As I have a Nikon which may work similar but not the same I'm not sure I can be of help but if you are at home this evening it might be easier to talk through over the phone?

 

Using focus zones is easy and for me the way to go but others might like to comment on this rather than cropping.

[fuzzyedges]

I seem to remember that the center spot sensor is more sensitive to verticals and horizontals than the outer ones

but the outers are very useful

If you are taking a portrait head shot you can select the right hand one, turn your camera focus on the eye and all the face is pritty well in the frame

All ons not really an option it focus's on the nearest thing to the camera

Had you selected the lefthand one for the image above there would have been space in front of the swan to move into as Richard says

I personally leave it on center spot and move the camera for quick grab shots and use the others if I have time to move the focus spots (mines a 50d similar principal but a tad easier to do)

 

 

http://my.safaribooksonline.com/book/photography/9780470409503/using-the-eos-rebel-xs-1000d/selecting_an_autofocus_point

[NannyFerret]

I usually use the centre focusing spot as I have missed too many shots trying to move it to suit the subject.

[FUJI]

Leon, its a big step from Bridge to DSLr, I know, I did the same some years ago.......Most of what I have learned since has been via the more experienced members of this Happy Band.

 

Just keep shooting, use the lens/es you have.....get your eye used to the capabilites of each....it took me ages and much frustration not having that huge, automatic Bridge Zoom capability.

 

You'll get there:

 

FUJI

[Leon]

wow mega advice thanks peoples .

 

I'v been out today seems the auto focus sticks, have to nudge the focus ring to get it  to move , I have also just invested in this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sigma-70-300mm-f4-5-6-Macro-Canon/dp/B000AM7CJ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1370087220&sr=1-1&keywords=sigma+70-300+dg  when I have it ill see about getting the kit lens serviced? 

 

my next problem will be when I go watching car racing again, I know a long lens with f4-5.6 may struggle with moving objects, I still have the bridge too so best of both worlds

 

thanks for the help again

[NannyFerret]

I have the 70-300 Nikon fit Sigma and it has given me no trouble at all. If  has the Macro button then you can shoot near when it's switched on, so you have the best of both worlds.

[colinb]

Leon I would suggest whilst you are still learning you try to get used to the idea of pressing the 4 way control moving the focus points into the required area. My Nikon D80 has 11 points and the D7000 39 points and whilst occasionally I press/hold the shutter I found once mastered moving the focus point it really works and you can move the point quickly and easily with practice. When shooting moving objects in readiness you can place the point to one side of the frame and using continuous focus panning becomes a lot easier than trying to hold the shutter without accidentally pressing it.

[Guest DaveW]

Switch to manual focus, cameras worked that way for decades before they ever invented autofocus. With manual focus you decide what you want in focus, with autofocus the camera often decides what it wants to focus on!  Far less hassle than switching focus points around the screen and probably just as quick.   Must confess I don't use autofocus much, but then am not an action photographer and was brought up on fully manual cameras anyway.

 

As to cropping, that is simply a matter of opinion. No two photographers would crop a picture in the same way. Some crops may look better than others and so they tend to become so called "rules", but it is still down to which you think looks best.

 

http://digital-photography-school.com/cropping-for-impact

 

Remember, particularly for on-screen use rather than printing out, you don't have to stick to the proportions the image came out of the camera or any set format. You can convert the image to a letterbox or even a portrait format by cropping and remove all extraneous elements in the image to concentrate attention on the subject. This video illustrates that, but you don't need to pre-set the image dimensions as there are usually "handles" on the crop lines which you can left click on with the mouse arrow and holding down the button drag the crop lines to where you want them.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9nanmaRyONY

 

Most PP software works similar to Photoshop, but instead of angling the crop lines as in the following video, in Elements (and Photoshop?) if you place the mouse arrow just outside the crop frame and hold down the left mouse button you can move your mouse up and down and alter the angle of the crop.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ARHWOrzGfw

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMMsUsO0IkY

Edited June 3, 2013 by DaveW