fuzzyedges

Ive just one cick left cw help is this normal? Is my eyesite that bad

The last picture in the Zeiss should have been this

Franka Kamerwerk Solida 1 With the more expensive lens a 75mm with a huge aperture of f4.5 Shutter speeds of 1/25 1/75 and 1/100 Not quite as well engineered as the Zeiss but still good It took a 120 film Made in Bayreuth Bavaria from 1952

Moving on to Folders The Zeiss Ikon Netter 517/516 was at the lower end of the Zeiss market it took 120 film and had 3 shutter speeds and B 1/25 1/75 and 1/200 The lens on the cheapest were a vario 75mm f6.3 This is a landscape opening folder To take an image you first decided on the aperture and pushed the lever at the rear of the lens to it Then you selected the speed by the large rotory ring (that only moves about 1/16 of its circumferance Then you cocked the shutter with the small lever Focusing was done by one of three methods a) buy a range finder to fit the cold shoe on the top b) measure the distance with a tape c) Guess and use the hyperfocal settings on the camera Press the shutter release Arnt we spoilt today production started in 49 and ended 58

Okay

One of our churchs has had this treatment its good to see how the modern is blended into the old. It seems to lift the old No2 I like although I think the image would be stronger in the last 5 lamps with the banding if the first oof light was missing

I seem to remember that the center spot sensor is more sensitive to verticals and horizontals than the outer ones but the outers are very useful If you are taking a portrait head shot you can select the right hand one, turn your camera focus on the eye and all the face is pritty well in the frame All ons not really an option it focus's on the nearest thing to the camera Had you selected the lefthand one for the image above there would have been space in front of the swan to move into as Richard says I personally leave it on center spot and move the camera for quick grab shots and use the others if I have time to move the focus spots (mines a 50d similar principal but a tad easier to do) http://my.safaribooksonline.com/book/photography/9780470409503/using-the-eos-rebel-xs-1000d/selecting_an_autofocus_point

A half press on your shutter release locks focus so you can then move the swans into the thirds position when you take them This is okay as long as you arnt using a shallow dof where it may go out of focus when you move position

I dont collect cameras BUT I am drawn to a bargain which these have been The most expensive one I have bought is a bakelite Hawkette at £22 (which I will post later as its a folder) none of the box cameras has been more than £8 and make a great display I have them displayed better than this but I coudnt get back far enough to photograph them

This is the six - 20 F model Made between 1955 and 1957 It has not only a close up lens that can be moved in but a yellow filter for sunny days It also had attachments for flash Some of the parts were gold plated It was one push for the shutter release instead of down for one shot and up for the next as in the older models Bees knees camera this one The film carrage was a lot smaller but the exterior was the same

Its nice to see a luxury goods that seems to be beating the austerity measures, or percieved austerity measures people have adopted over the last year Well for canon anyway

LP-E5 battery Amazon canon £33.31 I am using duracell for my 50d (not same battery but same maker) and it seems good over 250 shots and still going strong showing full charge still LP-E5 duracell Amazon £12.49 mixed reviews but generally positive Did buy some cheapo ones £11 for two they last approx 100 shots apiece, use them as last ditch ones

Remember the sensor in this camera is a 1.6x sensor commonly known as a crop sensor This means a 50mm lens is equivalent to 50 x 1.6 = 80mm lens on a full frame sensor its handy to know when shooting with a tele photo say 300mm this makes it equivalent to 480mm (ideal for sport) Down side is a 24mm lens is = to a 38mm Or in other words when you need a wide angle you have to go wider but when you want a long lens you have a greater reach All ef /efs lens should fit yours so look in charity shops for older lens, whilst maybe slightly not as good as lens designed for digital they are still very good and above all cheap

Hi there Modern or ancient aircraft or just anything that flies Look forward to seeing your images

Aw shucks you are making me blush

This is an F model Portrait Brownie 2 Practically the same as the red one above except it has a key winder which means it dates from 1929-1931 and went on to 1935 with the knob winder It also has a second lens for close up work, as much as I can find out the standard lens (which is behind the shutter) focus is 7 to 8 feet away but by depressing a lever on the right hand side a second lens swings up in front of the shutter and decreases the focus to 4 foot away This drops back under gravity Its cost in red was 19/6d so black would have been cheaper (I am not sure which year it was at that price)

The junior had fixed aperture f11 but the I-B lever was on the side just above the shutter release It was a later release than the F type the junior was 1934 -1938

Could well be a No 0 brownie A Dave They look the same but only have an I and B lever made from card and wood Made 1914 to 1928 The article has a common mistake saying the aperture is f11 they usually start at f16 Havnt found one of these yet http://www.flickr.com/photos/senorton/543374471/

As I seem to be gathering these I thought I would start sharing them with you The first is a 1931/33 f type No2 box brownie by kodak (made in England) 80 years old and still working although I havnt put a film through it They cost (I cant find the british price ) but the ones in the usa sold for 2$ 50c

Thats a very clever shot Well chosen

Bigger the ISO grainier (noisier) looking the image but that may be what is wanted by the photographer Quality is maybe not the correct word possably smoother might be nearer As the three (iso aperture and shutter speed ) are all linked together Iso is generally the last thought In aperture mode Av you would set the f stop to what you wanted and check the shutter speed if it was less than 90 (This is the area where camera shake can occur ) you would up the ISO In shutter mode Tv (general for action shots) you would set the shutter speed and check the Av (usually for depth of field) then up or lower the iso to the desiered F stop

Try and decide what you like photographing before buying and then buy to your strengths whether its people or landscape or macro or abstract or archetecture each has its own way of being taken Its so easy to buy a super dooper and find you loose interest I know I have sold many a system only to buy later on as the interest grows again You will by the laws of nature gravitate towards a dslr but dont rule out second hand to keep the cost down A bottom end dslr with a good lens will be better than an expensive body with a cheap lens Most of all have fun and dont let it get to you, unless you have deep pockets

Sounds interesting Ive a few 1920's /30's boxes and later folders plus a couple of tlr's just bought a 1930's hawkette and a few canons up to a four year old dslr (sound familiar bugmiester)

Hi Just missed you in the chat room (banging on the back door saw me away) look forward to the images It is friendly (but rule me out as the whisperer )

Are they rich people? that are well connected If they are its probably a good reason for them to be above the law