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Nikon grid lines


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I've been playing around with my new Nikon D5100. In live view mode I can flip between show Info, hide info and show framing grid on the screen. Since the rule of thirds is such a strong compositional tool, can anyone suggest why the grid lines divide my screen into quarters rather than thirds.

 

 

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Placing the subject roughly midway between the lines top or bottom or side to side gives approximate thirds without the lines themselves obscuring say the horizon line itself as they would if on the thirds themselves?

 

http://wesleytang.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/getting-rule-of-thirds-guideline-on.html

 

The rule of thirds anyway is only a guide and you should only use it as such until you get used to automatically placing the image in the viewfinder where it looks best, even if that breaks the convention.

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I've looked through my settings and don't believe I have a grid on my D3200. Disappointing, (unless I've missed it), because my FujiS9500 had one and I found it very useful, especially for the horizon.

Nope, not on the D3200 according to the manual and a couple of websites.

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Out of interest, how many people on here use bracketing more than occasionally?

 

 

Funny you should ask that question Nanny, I've been reading up on bracketing and found out how it works on my camera. Yesterday and today I've bracketed everything. I started out by using + & - 2, but the results looked a bit extreme. I switched to + & - 1 with better results. I'm beginning to wonder how this is a benefit if I shoot in raw, because I have up to 2 stops compensation in NX2.

 

A downside to bracketing is that I have to remember to take 3 shots each time or else I mess things up.

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Ooh, the terminology is coming back to my little brain lol.....

I've not tried bracketing though, need to know what I'm doing first.

I never gave it a thought to check if the D3200 had a grid.....if I'd know it hadn't, I would have bought a different camera.  I really miss it for every day pics, but nevermind, will have to manage without.

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A downside to bracketing is that I have to remember to take 3 shots each time or else I mess things up.

 

On the canon if you select auto bracketing and continious shoot, when you press the shutter it takes three and stops (does not carry on shooting) until you press again

 

because I have up to 2 stops compensation in NX2.

But you have 2 stops from 1- and two stops from 1+ so you would have 5 stops variation

which is -2 -1 "correct" +1 +2 if you follow my drift  

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My Nikon does a similar trick.

 

I can set a 3 - 5 - 7 - 9 - 11 shot sequence and it will rattle them off at 8fps if a hold the button in - or I can take my time and fire singularly. 

Five is my usual choice as its still over in a fraction of a second so even hand-held they line up rather well.

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Ooh, the terminology is coming back to my little brain lol.....

I've not tried bracketing though, need to know what I'm doing first.

I never gave it a thought to check if the D3200 had a grid.....if I'd know it hadn't, I would have bought a different camera.  I really miss it for every day pics, but nevermind, will have to manage without.

Then you wouldn't have all those pixels to play with, Beth.

I hardly ever used it on my other camera's.

You won't be able to do bracketing unless you take each picture my manually setting the exposure.

I must read up on the HD or HDR setting as haven't looked into that properly yet.

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Never used auto bracketing as I always shoot RAW and it's surprising how much exposure latitude that gives for manipulation in post processing.  Also auto bracketing may not be much use for panning moving subjects if the ideal image does not coincide with the ideal exposure, unlike a motordrive series at the correct exposure where the best image could be selected?

 

Even for insect photography the insect could move slightly between shots.  Also for flash photography your flash would need to recycle quickly enough to take 4-5 shots in rapid succession, which usually means flash used close up on low power.

 

I must confess, though my Nikon D200 has a grid and I have it set I never really notice it when taking pictures anymore than I ever did notice focusing aids like split image range finders or microprism's on the old manual camera screens.  I soon got used to screen focusing and such so called aids then simply became a distraction as they only optimise focusing on a single point, which is not always an advantage for macro work. I still probably use manual screen focusing to assess what actually is in focus all over the screen as much as I do autofocus.

Edited by DaveW
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